Basketweave Front/Back post stitch is my favorite stitch for making potholders. It forms a thickness not available with regular crochet, without the weight of double layers. This one I just completed tonight, hasn’t even had its first wash; the once I am replacing is in the photo down at the bottom.  Same yarn, just several years of use for one of them!

Kitchen Cotton: You can use Lily brand Sugar ‘n Cream, or Peaches and Creme, or Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton…. fairly the same, good sturdy thick cotton yarn.  There are lesser quality cotton yarns that look similar at first blush, but I find them to be a lesser quality and they don’t hold up as well.  Stick with the brands with long-standing reputation and you won’t be disappointed.

I use a Size G hook, but you might prefer an H or I.     

FpDC/BpDC:  Front post/Back post Double Crochet:  worked like a normal Double Crochet, but instead of using the top loop(s) of the stitch below, you work around the post of the stitch.  For FpDC, wrap the yarn around the hook once (same as regular DC), then pass the hook from the front around the post and draw the first loop around the post, then (just as with DC) pull yarn through 2 loops, then pull yarn again through 2 loops.  For BpDC, take the hook  to the back and wrap around the post and pull up yarn from the back side.

Ch. 42.

Row 1:  In 3d ch from hook (counts as first st), DC and then DC across to make 40 sts across; ch3, turn.

Row 2:  *FpDC, BpDC, repeat from *  to end; ch3, turn.  Turning ch3 always counts as the first stitch of the next row.

Row 3 and all following rows: As you view the work, BpDC around all the FpDC on previous row; and FpDC around all the BpDC on previous rows.  At the end of each row be sure to work a front- or back-post into the ch3 post that started the row below.  (This creates an alternating or basketweave appearance.  If you make a FpDC into the FpDC below, and BpDC into the BpDC of the row below you will create a faux ribbing.)

Work 20 rows.  As you complete the last row, do not ch3 or turn. Instead, work 2 rounds of SC around entire work to form neat border, making sure to do 3SC at each corner to prevent bunching.

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As you can see, the one on the right has been well used, but it’s not frayed or in tatters ever after many years.  This particular batch is done in Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton — I got a large bag of assorted balls/colors back in New Orleans, and I’ve been using it as needed for crocheted potholders and knitted dishcloths.

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